Giving it a good engine wash

I have not wash the engine bay for years. All of the sudden I decided to do it..thinking off, that I have completed the repair work for my elantra. Touch wood...nothing further to repair.

This is how it looks like before. The positive battery terminal was disconnected.

I sprayed with degreaser and later washed away with water. And this is how clean it is.

The final touch with engine detailer.... love it ! 

The Elantra rear shock absorber and discoveries

It was the last straw...the rear begin to sink till it's too visible and going over the speed bumps always scrap the bottom even with only a driver and a passenger in the car.

I send the car in the morning and wait for the outcome at home, with covid-19 pandemic..better to be at home.

Rear absorber bush, rear absorber mounting and rear spring cushion...all badly worn out.

This mushroom shape rubber mounting can easily broken each time replacing the absorber. Once it leaks, water will enter and rust will developed.

New spring cushion place on the rear spring as to stiffen the spring as I find the rear absorber it too soft and without those cushion, the absorber is overwork. After fitted, I find the ride is nice. Going over the road bumps felt firm, no more like double bump.

               

Left side spring. The spring too was covered with rubber hose...and surprisingly it work very well in term of reducing noise.

Right side spring too fitted the same.

I think this complete the repair on my elantra for this year 2020.

Elantra 2008 oil change at 206,182 km

This time I will be using a semi synthetic engine oil from Shell as the mileage is over 200k km. The same engine oil I'm using for my Hyundai Matrix. This oil change interval would be 8000km.

The oil filter, I'm using Trasko oil filter since 2008. Overall its a good filter for both my Hyundai's. My Dad did use this filter for his Honda Accord many years ago..he too was very satisfied. Bought quite alot of the element from US, that time the exchange rate very good. I still have stock of the element for couple of years !

Here is the fresh engine oil, Shell Helix 10W-40 High Mileage. Then I also pour in the X-1R Engine oil treatment.

This oil treatment has once saved my engine while running dry. It has proven and I will continue using it.

Finally a clean oil into the sump tank. My car was in an incline position so the level did not show F, anyway I have recheck on a flat surface, the oil level is good.

My battery becomes weak

The battery on my Hyundai Elantra was replaced on 8 January 2018 and today is begin to show usually sign..the cranking becomes becomes slow but able to start, the signal light behaving very strange: flickering inconsistent...some time fast and sometime slow.

Lucky I have fitted a battery meter, a good battery will show reading of 12.0 -12.3V but this time it recorded 10.02V..this means the battery is weak.

I know the cause...my Elantra has not been doing good daily running and frequent starting. Daily travel about 22-30km only.. on weekend the car even travel lesser. 

Removed both terminal and hook up to my battery charger. I hope 6 hours of charging is sufficient. If were to perform recondition charge..it will take about almost to 3 days.

Oh my Bendix !!!

On the year 2015 I had my front brake pad replaced with a pair of Bendix brake pad for Hyundai Elantra 2008 aka Elantra X20. I had my brake pad check this time around and what a surprised outcome.....thin down to the max!!

Lucky it did not reach the disc rotor or else it will an expensive repair.
I have the replacement set ready..off course it's Bendix again.

I'm very happy with grip quality of this brake pads...far far better than the original. There is also Bendix metal ..if you really really want a very very strong grip ( if you are always a fast driver). It cost me labour RM20 per side to replace the brake pads. The brake pad alone is RM140. 

The day when the alternator fail on my Elantra

It happens without any warning...even I had fitted a voltage meter that will indicate the alternator failure, that is all it can do. Luckily the car was park at a shopping mall and not while on the move.

A day earlier, everything was good.. I always keep a look on the voltage reading 13.5-14V while on the move. The next day we drove to a shopping mall and after a few hours spending our time, it was time to go home.

Starting the car as usual, not a problem but the steering is heavy, very very difficult to turn, the air-cond refuse to switch ON and power window is dead. I did try to turn OFF and start the engine, the same result. 

Looking at the dash meter .. while the engine was running, the voltage reading maintain 12.3V ( it is suppose to be showing 13.8-14V) , battery indicator light up, EPS light turn ON and that include brake light and ABS. I suspected this could be the alternator, I was worry failure of the EPS.

The car have to tow away to my regular workshop , it's impossible to drive.

At the workshop my mechanic have confirm, the alternator has fail and best to have it replace it.....option with  OEM alternator from Korea or Original. Difference in pricing almost RM400. I opted for the OEM.

This is not the 1st time experiencing alternator failure, it has happened on my Hyundai Matrix but able to detect while driving after a few days of driving, saw the voltage meter sign of reduction of charging current drop till 12V. I have it replace it with OEM alternator as well... it still works well till today.

New alternator for my 2007 Elantra on 23/3/2018 after reaching over166,000 km ! If time permitted , will send the old alternator for reconditioning and keep as spare.

Elantra X20 in the workshop

Have plan the Saturday 10/2/2018 for my elantra busy day with mileage at 162,090km on the odo.

Bought the necessary stuff, the rest will be from the workshop.  

Radiator hose, time to change as the car is over 10 years. There are 3 hose, however only one shown and the 3rd hose is a smaller and short but the spare parts shop run out of stock. So make do whatever that is available.

New valve gears rubber gasket as to patch the leaks, original set cost me RM45

This is the spark plug seal, RM20 for 4 pc

Tming belt ( 90,000km spec) complete with auto tensioner, oil seals and bearing. This cost me RM280

Have extra coolant in stock.

This is the condition of the timing belt ...looks scary with visible crack. It's 90,000km specs, looks like better to change at 75,000 -80,000km.

New timing belt.

Next is the radiator hose, it's good that I wrap it with heat resistance foam sheet. Still looks good but after 10 years....it's better to change rather than facing with burst radiator hose out of no where. The old hose on the left. Only 2 hose was replace, 2nd hose not shown here and 3rd hose( bended and short) not replace as it was still flexible.

Coolant was also replace, 1/2 bottle into coolant  reservoir . And 1 bottle into the radiator. 

Valve gear rubber gasket and spark plug seal . Now the engine looks cleaner.

 Atf hose was also replace as the old one already hardened and leaking. That hose alone cost me RM50 !

ATF oil was also renewed with my own stock.

Total labur RM450 inclusive 6% GST